Boro is an ancient Japanese tradition of sewing and mending kimonos and peasantry workwear utilizing all the possible scraps of fabrics found in the household, of any dimension, color, weight, and shape, which were then patched on top of the original garment. Often patches overlapped other patches, and through the years, mending after mending, the final result became almost devoid of any original fabric, consisting instead in a hodgepodge of tens, or hundreds, of disparate swatches. Women used sashiko stitching to reinforce the most critical areas, creating in the process intricate designs with needle and thread of contrast color, visible through the fabric. Sashiko - similar to running or saddle stitch - is frequently copied today by jeans and other designers wishing to instill a look of authenticity and heritage quality into their products. According to Heddels, an online resource for quality hipster clothing and accessories, the introduction of cotton and industrial processes into Japan at the turn of the twentieth century caused the Boro to lose its prominence, although the magnificent pieces we can still admire in museums give us an inspiring glimpse into the enormous possibilities we face as designers in front of fabric waste and overstock.
Vintage boro on sale at http://japanloverme-store.com/
Brands like Kapital, Koromo, and Dr. Romanelli have all created capsules, inspired by boro techniques, to create pants, jackets, shirts, and accessories, while all retaining their signature style and brand authenticity. Dr. Romanelli’s experiment is particularly interesting to me, as he mixed NBA sports jerseys with plaid and fleece fabrics to achieve completely unexpected results.
Boro pouch, by Kapital.
Boro-inspired kimono by Dr. Romanelli.
I strongly recommend watching designer Zoe Hong’s Boro sewing tutorial on Youtube to learn the ins and outs of boro, and the amazing results you can achieve with just scraps and leftovers. And if you have a simple mask pattern, why not try it out in small scale, and get something useful out of the effort? In fact, the most creative boro experiment thus far belongs to Kai D, an artisanal workshop in New York, who has been using vintage workwear textile scraps to sew together stylish and ultra-protective masks: a must in these pandemic times.
Boro mask by Kai D.
If you happen to be in Tokyo, you can't miss the permanent Boro exhibit at the Amuse Museum. In the meantime, all we can do is travel with our imagination, and perhaps pass the time by learning a new skill. Don’t get bored. Make boro.
(Cover phßoto credit and seller: Evanescentjp on Etsy)